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Know your Crafts - Chanderi Sarees

 

Chanderi sari is a traditional sari made in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India. The evolution of Chanderi began in 1890’s when the weavers changed from handspun yarn to mill made yarn. In the year 1910, the royal family of Scindia brought the Chanderi saree under their patronage and during that period gold thread motif made its presence in the main body of the cotton muslin saree for the first time. It further led to the introduction of the silk yarn and over the years dobby and jacquard use came into existence. Some of the various beautifully striking motifs include ‘Nalferma, ‘Dandidar, ‘Chatai’, ‘Jangla’, Mehndi wale haath’ etc. The Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that sets them apart from textiles produced en masse in factories. Traditionally, the fabric was woven using very fine hand spun yarn, which accounted for its delicate texture.

Buttis / Butta "Motifs”:

Since the inception of the Chanderi fabric and primarily ladies Sarees, the buttis on the fabric are hand-woven on Handloom. There is no use of any other process of manufacturing and it is Gold coated, Silver coated and as well as Copper coated. Now a days Tested Zari Butti are also common and in use. The Tested Zari is made with the
use of Synthetic yarn. The Buttis are made by use of Needles. Number of Needles used depends upon the number of Buttis and its size. For each Butti/Butta separate Needles are used. The handmade Buttis are permanent in its nature and existence as well, interlaced and its original shape and structure always remain the same even after its long use.

 

Transparency

The Chanderi Fabric is also well known for its transparency and sheer texture. The transparency is a unique feature, which is not commonly or found in any of the textile products all over the country. The transparency in Chanderi Fabric products is the consequence of Single Flature quality of yarn used. Flature yarn is the quality of yarn when the glue of the raw yarn is not taken out. The none - degumming of the raw yearn gives shine and transparency to the finished fabric.

 

Sources:

http://www.thehindu.com/features/friday-review/history-and-culture/article2090455.ece
http://www.india1001.com/blogs/news/6380038-the-famous-chanderi-fabric
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanderi_sari

 

Image Sources

http://www.pinterest.com


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